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Sunday, February 14, 2010

Wz.34 Polish Armoured Car

This is the little Certi Kit, made almost 20 years ago, but still the only game in town if your into early WWII armour. It was a quick kit to build, base coated in Tamiya Desert Yellow, with Green & Red Brown patches highlighted with a fine tipped Artline pen. A fine overspray of desert yellow from an air brush gave the vehicle the dusty look.

The only thing left to do is paint that exquisite Hornet figure, one day I'll get around to it.











If you are interested in more information on the cas have a look at the website:
Private Land Army Research Institute

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Wz 29 Polish Armoured Car

Airmodel/Hobby Blau Schmit/GPM Vacform Kit

Essentially another one of those modelling nightmares I'm a sucker for punishment for. Vacform kits of armour kits are a sheet of plastic with all the parts hot formed over a mould. The hard part is having to cut out the individual panels carefully, making sure you don't trim too much off, or leaving too much behind. This was my first attempt at it and I think I did an ok job of it.

Every individual rivet seen has been added to the kit using the Grandt Line conical rivet. The white metal suspension supplied was used, but the vacform wheels were replaced with wheels from an old GMC kit.


The kit panel lines were pre-shaded with Tamiya black and a light spray of Desert Yelow sprayed as a base coat. The next 2 colours of chocolate brown and Khaki have yet to be applied as there are still a few more details to work on.


The kit stayed on my bench for close to 15 years, and white plastic does become embrittled and the liquid cement yellows with time. Whilst I was handling the model I accidental dropped it and found out the hard way when one of the guards shattered. There were a few superlatives said that afternoon, but I managed to put it all back together and with some Tamiya body putty and careful sanding managed to hide the damage.

Some old builds lying around

M4A3 (76) W Sherman
14th Armoured Div.
Eichstadt Germany April 1945


The Sherman M4A3 is a mix & match, Tamiya lower hull & running gear with Italeri Turret, the muzzle brake I think came from an old Panzer IV in the spares box. The figures & periscopes are Verlinden.

The sandbag framework was constructed from plastic card, and the sandbags themselves made from DAS modelling clay, with soft fabric pressed into it.

The tank was from memory sprayed with Humbrol #30 Green overlayed with black stripes. 



























Freikorps
Tank 154 "Hanni"
ex ADT12 Kakampf as seen in Berlin 1919


Mark IV Male Emhar Kit built out of the Box for a Small Armies competition.


























SU-100

I'm a sucker for nightmare kits, probably why I don't get anything done. No this is not the Dragon kit or any other Eastern Block equivalent. This is AEF Designs Su100. This kit came with thin spots everywhere on the hull and full of air holes in the resin surface. I had to work really hard to get through this one, all the kit hatches had to be replaced. And really wasn't worth the money that i paid at the time.

I'll post the unit this tank is supposed to represent when I find my notes.




Techmod Soviet T-50 - the kit from hell





Now, this is what sets this little kit apart from any other I have done so far, not the individual track links themselves but the separate guide horns for the track links - tiny little loops that have to be cut from the sprue and glued to each link , (big sigh here) I started cutting them off, placing my finger over each one so it did not fly off to be eaten by the monster that resides in the dining room carpet. I used a scalpel with a new blade for this.



I trimmed each loop before I placed it in position on the back of each link with tweezers and touched it with a Tamiya Liquid Cement brush and held it in position until the glue had done its job. This was tedious work with a few of the loops being launched into oblivion and lost for ever. This took me a couple of nights to complete with many breaks to rest the weary eyes. After getting all the guide horns onto the links (I glued them on while the links were still on the sprues), I carefully cut the links away from the sprue , care must be taken here the links are rather delicate and can be easily broken. I found it easier to use the scalpel upside down and push the blade along the sprue through the joiners rather that cut downwards onto a hard surface. ( I must admit here the kit got the better of me and I had only done one side of tracks before shelving the kit for almost 10 years, to test my masocistic resolve I grabbed it down and restarted again)

Assembling the track links is difficult, because, they are quite small and fiddly, and they don't locate together very well. I put down some double stick tape onto a block of wood and used a straight edge metal ruler to act as a guide for each link.



I used Tamiya Liquid cement again so I could wrap the still wet track links around the sprockets and road wheels but everytime I tried I ended up with multiple sections of track ­ they would just not stay together while I wrapped them around. Don't go overboard with the glue as it would be easy to end up with a melted mess of plastic - the links are very thin.

I re-assmbled the sections of link & length and left them overnight these were long enough to run along the base, from base to sprocket and ideler and along running gear (with a slight bend).

wrapping around the sprocket & ideler was a real problem and the bond was too strong and the links kept snapping. Same result, they were still flexible but kept breaking into small sections. I pulled them all apart and left them for a few days while I thought of a way to get them onto the model.

I came up with the idea of placing the track links onto masking tape sticky side up and then glueing with the Tamiya glue, when I had enough links to do one side I simply turned the tape over and placed the run of links onto the sprocketand glued them into position while still on the tape.





The model almost completed, just a few more brackets and tie downs to put up.

AER MOLDOVA's 1/35 T-38 AMPHIBIOUS TANK



The first thing that hits you when you open the box, is that there isn't that much to this kit. The second thing that hits you is that you certainly not looking at a Dragon or Tamiya kit. This reminded me of an old old 60's kit, really poor definition of parts, my goodness the jack was a lump of plastic. If you want to do a good job on this kit, you are really going to have to put in the hard yards.










I really wan't prepared to do a lot, so I detailed the turrent and hull with a few more Grandt Line rivets, opened the hatch, and added a few details. I drilled out the prominent holes in the running gear. I may replace the headlights with MV Lenses if I can find the right ones

Tamiya SdKfz 222 21st Pz Div Afrika Korps

Aside from the mass of unstarted & started kits, I used to buy "built" kits for spares. In the rare times the kits were well built, but the paint job was crap, I would take time to do the best paint job I could at the time. On some occasions I even surprised myself




This kit was bought at an APMA meet, and after stripping the paint down I backdated the model using the visors from the Tamiya SdKfz 223 Armoured Car. Additional I used the gun cariage from a Tamiya 250/9 half track. There aren't any photos previous to this, as there were no digital cameras when I started this kit 15 years ago.





The photo above shows the kit with preshading. you can still see some of the sand coloured paint still in place.


The car was air brushed Tamiya Desert Sand and them stippled with Tamiya Panzer Grey to give the worn paint look.